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Crazed
08-06-2009, 11:18 AM
Here is my new tow rig


'88 efi 460, C6, 10.25, 2wd.

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/739614/fullsize/62409-035.jpg

Audra
08-06-2009, 03:36 PM
Beautiful rig, does she have that crazy dual fuel pump setup?

Crazed
08-17-2009, 11:43 AM
Yes it does, and the fuel guages are all wacked out. gonna have to get in and check whats going on there.

Crazed
08-17-2009, 11:43 AM
Here it is, '89 8.5 foot. i wanted something small for the gf and I to camp in and still be able to tow a bronco.


http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/751103/fullsize/dsc01886.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/751104/fullsize/dsc01887.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/751106/fullsize/dsc01889.jpg



Next on the list is getting it on the truck, and ordering a trailer :thumbup

Audra
08-17-2009, 11:56 AM
very cool. We are looking for a bronco camper so we can do a similar thing and still tow the trail rig.

I ended up eliminating the dual fuel pump setup after having troubles with vapor locking.

Crazed
08-17-2009, 01:40 PM
My truck hates starting warm, so im not sure if its related. How did you change the system out?

Audra
08-17-2009, 02:13 PM
Write-up from my website:

We started to cover this in another thread and thought I would write this up quick.
Back ground.

In 1988 and 1989 until mid year Ford used a two pump fuel system. Transfer pump in the tank, low pressure, and low flow. Then a booster pump in the frame rail.

Audra was having problems with her '88 C350. It would not start when warm. She went through all of the usual trouble shooting steps. Starter, battery. Battery cables, Grounds. All good.
The engine was cranking slower when warm and it makes sense to follow that course, but it was to no avail.

Checked for spark, and fuel pressure. Both were good.

However, what she eventually found was that the fuel in the rail on top of the engine was boiling. (vapor lock)
If she would cycle the key 3-4 times, let the fuel pump run each time, then try to start it. It would crank right up.

Check out the fuel flow test in the tech section as well. There is a flow rate spec as well as a pressure spec on fuel pumps.

She first went through the standard replacing the inline pump, and in tank pump and it did not completely fix the problem, but would improve it for a short time.

She put injectors and fuel pressure regulator in it at the recommendations of the idiots at Summit.

Even with the factory pumps brand new it would not pump enough fuel to clear the rail and prevent the problem.

Depends on what you want, The cheapest option is to go with a single intank pump.
You can get an external inline pump to do it all, but much more money.

Now there are easy ways that cost more, to do the conversion. Or the cheapest way possible. Not sure what you want to spend.

Easiest way, go with a newer tank, sending unit and pump. Anything after '89 will be a single pump setup, but there is still no bolt on replacement pumps that deliver much more than stock GPH. (gallons per hour)

If your heart is set on a huge pump then you will have to do some fabrication. I will show a pic of how we mounted the pump. We Soldered and hose clamped a third steel line to the factory setup to mount the pump on, it supports the weight and allows you to move the angle of the pump to what best matches your tank. It is very rigid.

Warning, it is a very tight fit getting this in and out of the tank.

Napa makes metal repair lines that can be used to basically bypass the inline pump in the rail. You can always replace the fuel line later.

If you want the factory nylon line a company called Dorman. Do a search on google that is where we found it. It is pretty cheap. Like $25 will do the whole truck and you reuse the fittings you have.

If you don't mind resuing your old tank you can get this all done for under $200. Closer to $150 if you reuse the old fuel line.

The more expensive way to go, is an aftermarket inline pump. There are a few options out there. The only real advantage is not having to drop the tank ever again.
To do this conversion you need to drop the tank, remove the old pump and create a pick up tube, and screen, or "foot" to pull fuel off the bottom of the tank.

Then you can buy adapter fittings to go from the Factory o-ring to a threaded AN fitting. From there you will have to use AN hose and fitting all the way to the front. I believe Summit sells them.
Seems like when we priced the parts to do this it was going to run about $500 for line, fittings and pump.

I can't remember all of the calculations for sure, but ford spec is like 30 GPH or gallons per hour. They sell pumps by LPM or liters per minute.
The factory replacement stock one would be 155 LPM, They offer larger ones like 180 LPM, I would make that the minimum on any EFI setup.
We used the 255 LPM pump.

I have no idea if the factory filter will handle the flow. The factory FP regulator and return line will handle the flow rate.

This solved the hot start problem and has been working great for a couple years now.

First pic, new pump on top, next to old one.
Second pic, ready to go in.
Third pic Notice the pump is hose clamped to a steel line?
Fourth pic you can see how I added a steel line just to support the fuel pump weight and angle.
all the pics (http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/5077/52623)


http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/443077/fullsize/dcp_0027.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/443108/fullsize/dcp_0058.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/443089/fullsize/dcp_0039.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/443081/fullsize/dcp_0031.jpg


:beer

Crazed
08-18-2009, 01:36 PM
I'll check into the fuel stuff, thanks for posting that.


Some more pics

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/751214/fullsize/dsc01892.jpg

Jacks were replaced last year (i still need the dually brackets)

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/751216/fullsize/dsc01894.jpg

Little table (makes a bed)

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/751217/fullsize/dsc01895.jpg

Kitchen (new fridge is on the other side)

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/751218/fullsize/dsc01896.jpg

Bed area

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/751219/fullsize/dsc01897.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/751222/fullsize/dsc01900.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/751223/fullsize/dsc01901.jpg

Bathroom

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/751220/fullsize/dsc01898.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/751221/fullsize/dsc01899.jpg

:beer

Audra
08-18-2009, 01:43 PM
That is a nice camper for wheeling :beer

dsotmoon
08-21-2009, 08:32 PM
damn i love that camper

Hefty
08-22-2009, 10:12 PM
I'm looking for one like this now except 4wd. Nice rig Crazed

Crazed
10-09-2009, 01:49 PM
Forgot to post new pics..


I put in the new tie downs, seemed pretty heavy duty

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/752430/fullsize/82309-011.jpg

and added a rubber bed mat

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/752433/fullsize/82309-014.jpg

Went over and got the camper

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/752434/fullsize/82309-056.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/752436/fullsize/82309-058.jpg
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/752451/fullsize/82309-076.jpg

Traveler
10-09-2009, 02:02 PM
That is a really nice setup.
try it out yet? Even just in the back yard?

Crazed
10-09-2009, 03:22 PM
Yeah we went camping once, that is how i found the leaks in the front corner windows! I got that all resealed, and rewired the trailer plugs on the bumper and in the bed (camper hookup). Will be towing the '78 to "Winterfest" on the 23rd of this month for some cooler weather camping, should be fun.

Getting my new trailer on monday, so I'll post up some pics

Traveler
10-09-2009, 07:46 PM
That is awesome. Campers are high maintenance, but once you get a handle on it they are easy to keep up.